The Le Mont Moelleux Première Trie is even deeper and riper than the gorgeous Le Haut-Lieu version, offering up a very precise nose of yellow plum, apple, honeycomb, a hint of lanolin, chalky soil elements and a topnote of tropical flowers. On the palate the wine is pure, full and bottomless, but also quite a bit more nascently monolithic right now (particularly when compared to the Le Haut-Lieu Première Trie), with excellent acids and grip, stunning length and just impeccable balance on the gorgeous, but youthful finish. This is not really closed right now, but it is so young and primary that it would be crazy to start opening bottles now (other than to get a sense of what is coming down the line if one has a case or more), so just let this one hibernate from the get go. 2028-2100.

Purchased in 1957, Le Mont lies on the esteemed Premiere Côte. With less clay and more stone than Le Haut-Lieu, Le Mont yields young wines of intense minerality. The wines are the estate's most reticent, but develop the strongest perfume with age. Size: 8 hectares

The 2018 Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux Première Trie is pure, deep and flinty on the concentrated nose, with very fine oak, toffee and potted ginger aromas. Lush, sweet and generous yet precise and crystalline on the palate, it features very fine tannins, lingering salinity and positive energy. This is a compact, persistent, tightly woven and stimulating Chenin from the Le Mont terroir that reveals firm, tensioned structure and a young finish with potential to improve and refine. Tasted in May 2019.